Welcome to Ethan Siegel's Website |
July 13. Greetings from Ho Chi Minh City! We haven't been able to update
our website for the last three weeks in Vietnam. Before that, we were
in Bangkok for about 10 days at the end of June. We're going to Cambodia
on the 15th and then returning to Thailand to visit the northern hills and the
islands in the south. It looks pretty certain that we'll be returning in
the middle of September now, right before our airline ticket expires. Imagine
that. Since we couldn't update the site with the Bangkok photos, we're
doing so now and we'll post some Vietnam and Cambodia photos soon. So,
let's talk about Bangkok. Bangkok is a cool city. It is jammed with
10 million people and is a mixture of centuries-old and modern buildings and
customs. Obviously, it was incredibly different than the places that we
have seen over the last three months. One of the guidebooks that we read
said that Bangkok can and will offend most of your senses. This is true,
if you let it. Bangkok is hot, humid, hectic, loud, aromatic (to put it
nicely) and full of traffic like you wouldn't believe. None of this matters,
though, because it is also full of temples (called wats), a million bustling
markets, and really friendly Thai people. Have no doubt, there was quite
a bit of culture shock when we first arrived, but by the end of our stay we knew
our way around, were eating all sorts of different things and our senses were
stimulated rather than offended. For our first few days, we toured some
of the famous wats and the Grand Palace, as well as several smaller wats and
a few buddhas, too. We also went for a long walk through the labyrinth that
is Chinatown, which is really a giant market of long, twisting, narrow alleys.
We did some shopping and met wholesalers selling everything from
hand bags made out of used jeans to electronics made in China with the most incomprehensible
instructions translated into "English." One travel iron
stated "Is not necessary excess implement 30 minutes as 10 minutes exceed is
active." We spent one evening in Patpong, which, in addition to being the
red light district of the city, also has a night market. Everything was
inexpensive everywhere that we went, even when people were trying to rip us off.
Most meals were less than $5 per person, and many were in the $2 range.
After a few days of being on our own, we met up with our friend
Josh and his girlfriend Pookie (sorry Pook if that's not how you spell it!!!).
Josh has traveled to Thailand several times and moved to Bangkok a few months
ago. Pookie is a native Thai, so it was great to have both of them as
guides. They showed us a really good time and we saw a lot of things that
we probably would not have seen without them. They certainly took us to
some great restaurants that we never would have found on our own (or been brave
enough to try!). We learned that Pookie has a well-earned reputation for
ordering dishes on the sly -- we would agree in English on 4 or 5 dishes, she
would order in Thai, and the waitress would bring 7 or 8 different dishes.
The Thais serve the food as it is ready, so the dishes kept coming every few
minutes, and we were never quite sure when the food would stop arriving.
In addition to eating, we went to Chatuchak market, which has got to be one of
the biggest markets in the world and sells EVERYTHING. Souvenirs, clothing,
shoes, furniture, pets and everything else you can think of. The market
goes on for as far as the eye can see in every direction. It is notorious
for being extremely hot, and it was even hotter than that. At one point,
Lane thought she was melting like the witch in Wizard of Oz. We also
took a few rides on the long tail boats, which are long, narrow boats that have
an old automobile engine at one end, and a long drive shaft (about 12 feet) hanging
off the back with a small propeller. There are canals, called klongs,
in portions of Bangkok and the outlying areas, and long tail boats are the
best way to get around. We took one long tail boat through a klong in and
near Bangkok, and took another one to a farm outside of the city. We also
traveled north out of Bangkok one day to Ayutthaya, which was a former capital
of Thailand before being destroyed by the Khmers from Cambodia. The ruins
there were fascinating, and we also got to see and feed some elephants.
What was perhaps most striking about Bangkok was how the past and present coexist
side by side. Large skyscrapers next to aging, bare homes on the klongs.
Giant malls next to people in stalls selling goods the same way they
have for hundreds of years. Vietnam was totally cool, too, but more on that
later...We've broken up this update into two parts, so check out page two when
you are done with page one. It should be easier for some of you to load
the pictures this way. If a picture doesn't load, just right-click on
it and select "Show Picture." We hope everyone back home is enjoying the
summer! It's been hot here, but we see that it's been equally hot in NYC.
We haven't wilted yet and are still healthy, energetic and loving our travels.
Best regards to everyone! |
Bangkok |


A solid jade buddha from one of the temples we visited. Carved from a single
piece of jade and quite valuable. |
The standing Buddha. You can see a few people in the foreground for perspective
-- this buddha was HUGE. |

This is from Wat Phra Kaeo, on the grounds of the Grand Palace. The grounds
of the palace were stunning, with many amazing buildings and the Wat where this
photo was taken. The demons and monkeys surrounding the building are to
ward off evil. |

The buildings at the Grand Palace are decorated with gold and small pieces of colored
glass fixed to the walls. When they were building the complex, the buildings
here received the best colored glass and the remaining glass went to the
other wats throughout the country. |


Above, Lane on the grounds of Wat Phra Kaeo. That is all stained glass.
The decoration of these buildings was unbelievable. In the coronation
building at the Grand Palace, the walls were intricately handpainted and looked
just like wallpaper. It took three years of painting! To the left is another
example of the exquisite artistry that went into these buildings. Because
they can only capture a little of what is in front of you, the photos don't
really do justice to the sensation of being surrounded on all sides by the beautiful
ornate patterns of colored glass and unbelievable sculptures. |



This is Wat Po, one of the more famous and ornate wats. The next two photos
are close ups of some of the buildings. |


Lane on a tuk tuk, one of the many forms of transportation in Bangkok. Cars
on the road wrestle for space with tuk tuks, buses and a ton of motorbikes.
We're pretty sure we'd kill someone if we ever had to drive in Bangkok.
Most taxi rides are 2 or 3 dollars and tuk tuks are about a dollar, so it's
easy to avoid driving. Plus, the traffic is downright AWFUL, making the LIE
look like a breeze. |

No trip to Bangkok would be complete without a stop to see some Thai Boxing.
|

The next few photos are a window into life on a klong. Here, a few boys playing
on the side of the klong in front of a temple. The klongs are definitely
a great example of the past and present coexisting. The people who live
on the klong still swim and bathe in the water despite it's high level of pollution.
|



A tall apartment building rises in the background of the modest homes on the klong. |