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April 20.  We've spent the last week on the west coast in the southern part of the country.  This area is about as geographically diverse as you can imagine.  The area is predominantly rainforests, yet there is a large mountain range here, as well as glaciers and the coastal beaches on the Tasman sea.  We've been to places where the rainforest runs right down to the beach, and to other spots where the glaciers run right through the rainforest.  We last left off in Tasman, which is a few minutes from the Abel Tasman National Park.  There, Lalenya and I learned how to sea kayak and went on an all day sea kayaking trip.  We covered about 15 kilometers.  The kayak trip started with a boat ride up the coast of Abel Tasman National Park.  We passed quite a few dolphins, who were very playful and kept approaching our boat and riding in the pressure wave under the bow of the boat.  Once we were in the kayaks, we paddled out to a seal colony and watched the young pups play for a while.  Then we kayaked south down the coast to a lodge in the park, where we were picked up by our boat for our return trip.  The first 15 minutes of kayaking were a bit sketchy, but we quickly got our groove and made the trip with no problems at all.  After leaving Tasman, we traveled to the west coast and headed south.  We stopped for a night at the Punakaiki ("Pancake") Rocks and Blowholes, which is an amazing rock formation carved out of limestone by the ocean.  The rocks are in layers, like pancakes, and the ocean has hollowed out a few tunnels underneath the rocks.  At high tide, water rushes up these tunnels and gets expelled through the holes.  Pretty neat stuff.  After that, we continued our journey south, to the Franz Josef glacier and the Fox glacier.  We spent a day hiking up to each glacier, and we were able to get pretty close to both.  Because of the large amounts of snow fall in the past 5 years, and the fact that they are located in a temperate rain forest, these two glaciers are two of the fastest moving glaciers in the world, up to a few meters every day.  They each get between 150 and 250 feet of snow per year at the top, and 15 feet of rain on the lower parts of the glacier.  After spending a couple of days hiking around the glaciers, we hit one of the 50 sunny days they get each year, so we decided to take a 1/2 day heli-hike.  We took a helicopter up about 4000 feet onto the glacier, and hiked for about 3 hours.  It was spectacular, to say the least.  We hiked through ice caves and walked on 8 inch wide ice croppings with bottomless crevasses of death on either side.  A little scary, but no one died and it certainly got the heart pumping.  The flowing water was crisp and clean enough to drink.  The glaciers are in a pretty remote area, and our journey then took us further south into a completely unspoiled and essentially uninhabited part of the country.  There, we spent three nights at the Wilderness Lodge in Lake Moeraki.  There was not even a road here until 1965, and the Lodge is the old camp that the road workers built to sleep in when they were constructing the road.  The Lodge is surrounded by rainforest and is also about a 30 minute walk to the beach.  The Lodge gets all of its supplies from Christchurch, which is 7 hours away.  We took a few hikes through the rainforest and on the beach, and also took an evening view of the glow worms that inhabit the area.  We got amazing views of the night sky again, and you can definitely see the Milky Way with the naked eye.  We left the Wilderness Lodge and spent a nigth in Wanaka.  Our next stop is Queenstown.  We have a little more than a week left here, then we are off to Australia.  We hope all is well with everyone back home!
Abel Tasman, Punakaiki, Franz Josef/Fox Glaciers, Lake Moeraki
Dolphins on the way to our sea kayaking trip.
A picture from our kayak.  The scenery and water in Abel Tasman was quite striking.  There are a few seals on the rocks if you look closely.
Cape Foulwind.  That's right, Foulwind.  Smelled fine to us, and certainly a nice view.
Our next stop was the Punakaiki Rocks.  Our room at Punakaiki was right on the beach.  The driftwood scarecrow thing was a bit Blaire Witchy for us, but the view made up for it.
Punakaiki pancake rocks.
After Punakaiki, we headed south to the glaciers.  This is Franz Josef glacier and the surrounding mountains.
A blowhole in action at high tide.
Some cool waterfalls on the hike up to the terminal face of Franz Josef.
The terminal face of Fox glacier. 
Above:  After two days of hiking to the glaciers on the ground, we took to the air and went on a heli-hike on Fox glacier.  Right:  The picture of us above at the terminal face of Fox gives some proportion to the picture of the entire glacier, taken from the air.
Those crevasses were DEEP.  One wrong step and you were a goner.  The guide asked us to please not fall.  Really.
The inside of a small ice cave.
We went into that.
Looking out from the same cave.
A larger ice cave.  Our guide is actually saying "Holy Shit!" as he looks down a hole that was deeper than the eye could see.  He later told us to keep backing up toward the hole so he could get a better photo, as seen in the previous shot.
Lane emerging from the first ice cave in the series.
A pool of water that wasn't there 2 hours earlier.
Our next stop was the Wilderness Lodge, far from everything else.
Above:  Kayaking at the Wilderness Lodge, Lake Moeraki.  Right:  We hiked through the rainforest that surrounds the lodge.  The rainforest goes right up to the shores of Monro Beach, on the Tasman Sea.
Can you say scary bridge?
The edge of the rainforest and beginning of Monro Beach.
Monro Beach
We also took a walk through the rainforest swamp at Ships Creek.
We stopped for a picnic lunch with our guide at a deserted beach, reachable only by water, before heading off again.  You can see our kayaks in the distance on the beach.  The beach was called Mosquito Beach.  Good news:  no mosquitos.  Bad news:  lots of sand flies.  As we sit here itching, we're still wondering if the distinction matters.
Mmm...pancakes.
That's it for now, you can see we've been quite active.  I'm sitting on my ass for at least a month when I get home.  Then I'm figuring out a way to support myself.  Until then, no worries, mate.